Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing whenever.
When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into difficult locations.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the info you will need to select the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Installing a blade into a saw:
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle should face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to show the stress is proper. If you do not hear the ping merely undo and repeat the process again up until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Tools for Piercing: There are many various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright, the most crucial thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of various attachments including drill bits.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to preserve a constant and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Conserve this for later on.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use effectively.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an exact outcome each time.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but constant pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again when sawing is complete.
File to finish.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Starting to Saw:.