A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

There have been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into challenging locations.

When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to very fine. The table below includes all the info you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly appropriate. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Setting up a blade into a saw:

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to guarantee a precise outcome every time.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use effectively.

Conserve this for later on.

Troubleshooting:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a gentle and stable action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Starting to Saw:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Repairing:.

The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a novice.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to complete.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Piercing.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to unwind. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely typical and practise makes best. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you buy.

Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). If you desire to move a more intricate style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Then prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks created when you re-trace. As soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

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