Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for small scale projects, however the choice is down to personal preference.
There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a range of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard locations.
When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the info you will need to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure an exact outcome whenever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Conserve this for later on.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but gentle pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to end up.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to keep a gentle and stable action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use efficiently.
Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). If you wish to move a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of various attachments including drill bits.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to reveal the stress is proper. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the process again up until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability prior to you purchase.
Starting to Saw:.