A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Although most of us recognize with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have actually assembled this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the proper path to successful sawing each time.

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into challenging locations.

Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general function size for little scale jobs, however the option is down to personal choice.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely sufficient. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Tools for Piercing: There are many various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. The most essential thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Starting to Saw:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Fixing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Conserve this for later.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however constant pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again as soon as sawing is total.
File to finish.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee a precise outcome each time.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Also dont be lured to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.

Piercing.

Repairing:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a novice.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to move a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Then prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a mild and consistent action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

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