A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the correct course to successful sawing every time.

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for small scale projects, but the choice is down to individual choice.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the info you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly appropriate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Setting up a blade into a saw:

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a constant but mild pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again as soon as sawing is total.
File to end up.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

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Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure an accurate result every time.

Beginning to Saw:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of different accessories including drill bits.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Piercing.

Fixing:.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to keep a steady and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use effectively.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to move a more complex style onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. When you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool down.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a novice.

Fixing:.

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