Another choice you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something completely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing every time.
There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into challenging locations.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. The table below consists of all the details you will require to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a mild and consistent action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Conserve this for later on.
Starting to Saw:.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big range of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability prior to you buy.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however gentle pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
Submit to end up.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to show the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the process again until its best. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure an accurate result every time.