Saw piercing is likely to be among the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the first action in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something totally various and holds unlimited possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing whenever.
There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for small scale projects, however the choice is down to personal choice.
When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below includes all the information you will need to choose the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Installing a blade into a saw:
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes best. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of various attachments consisting of drill bits.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Conserve this for later on.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you buy.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure a precise outcome whenever.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous however gentle pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
File to finish.
Starting to Saw:.
The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you want to move a more intricate style onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the style onto the metal.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a gentle and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle ought to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a novice.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.