A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another decision you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for little scale jobs, however the option is down to individual preference.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough areas.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely fine. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the information you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly adequate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you desire to transfer a more intricate style onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage should face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to reveal the stress is right. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the process once again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a stable and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Piercing.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical, the most crucial thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. However, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.

The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to assist the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Conserve this for later on.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a newbie.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle but constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again once sawing is complete.
Submit to complete.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Fixing:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure a precise result each time.

Starting to Saw:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability prior to you buy.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Fixing:.

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