Another decision you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something completely different and holds unlimited possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the proper path to successful sawing whenever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for little scale tasks, however the choice is down to personal preference.
There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into hard locations.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. The table below contains all the information you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most important thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Likewise do not be lured to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a mild but constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again once sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a gentle and constant action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Starting to Saw:.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various accessories including drill bits.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you buy.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to reveal the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the process once again till its best. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a novice.
Conserve this for later on.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee an exact outcome each time.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.