A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another decision you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into difficult areas.

Sawing

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something completely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Although many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable in the beginning, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the proper path to successful sawing each time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for small scale tasks, however the choice is down to personal preference.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to very great. The table below includes all the info you will require to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Installing a blade into a saw:

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Beginning to Saw:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Troubleshooting:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.

The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Troubleshooting:.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a newbie.

Conserve this for later.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to keep a gentle and stable action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to finish.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to guarantee an accurate outcome whenever.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pressed down and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Piercing.

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