A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard areas.

Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below includes all the details you will require to select the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Installing a blade into a saw:

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure an accurate outcome whenever.

The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage ought to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to show the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the process again up until its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial range of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Repairing:.

Piercing.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Conserve this for later.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use successfully.

Repairing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you purchase.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Tools for Piercing: There are lots of various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous however mild pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
File to end up.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. However, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.

Starting to Saw:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a steady and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

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