Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something completely different and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing whenever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult areas.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the info you will need to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly sufficient. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to move a more complex design onto metal. Before moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Once you have re-traced the design onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an exact outcome every time.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a steady and gentle action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Also dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Conserve this for later on.
The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.
The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability before you purchase.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, check the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to finish.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial range of various attachments consisting of drill bits.
Starting to Saw:.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.