A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Another choice you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something totally different and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing every time.

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the information you will require to choose the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Piercing.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again as soon as sawing is total.
Submit to end up.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to preserve a mild and constant action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure a precise result each time.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, check the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.

Starting to Saw:.

Repairing:.

Repairing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Save this for later.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability prior to you buy.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you desire to transfer a more intricate style onto metal. Then before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also prone to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

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