Another choice you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard locations.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something totally various and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing each time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the details you will require to select the right blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine should be completely sufficient. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Installing a blade into a saw:
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Conserve this for later on.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle must face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to show the stress is right. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the process again till its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to maintain a stable and gentle action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Starting to Saw:.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Also do not be tempted to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly helping to make sure an exact result whenever.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a mild but constant pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again when sawing is total.
File to finish.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability before you purchase.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.