Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough locations.
When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely fine. The table listed below consists of all the details you will need to select the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly adequate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Installing a blade into a saw:
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Beginning to Saw:.
Conserve this for later.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Also dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle but constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to finish.
Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you want to transfer a more intricate design onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a gentle and stable action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability prior to you purchase.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pressed down and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use successfully.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an exact outcome every time.