There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic purpose size for small scale tasks, however the option is down to individual preference.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the info you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Installing a blade into a saw:
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Conserve this for later on.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure an accurate result whenever.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to finish.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a novice.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle need to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to preserve a consistent and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Starting to Saw:.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.