A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the very first action in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds endless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the correct path to effective sawing each time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the details you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use successfully.

Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability before you buy.

Repairing:.

Beginning to Saw:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to ensure an accurate outcome every time.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of different attachments including drill bits.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to preserve a constant and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Repairing:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a novice.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Save this for later.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again as soon as sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.

Piercing.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to transfer a more complicated style onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

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