Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable in the beginning, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right course to successful sawing whenever.
There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general purpose size for little scale jobs, however the option is down to personal choice.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below contains all the info you will require to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely adequate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
Beginning to Saw:.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a consistent and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle but constant pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
File to end up.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. Nevertheless, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). If you want to move a more intricate style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Then prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks created when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle need to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to reveal the stress is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and repeat the process once again till its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an exact result every time.
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Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of various accessories including drill bits.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.
Tools for Piercing: There are many different ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright, the most essential thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.