Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough areas.
When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the information you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of different accessories including drill bits.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure an exact result each time.
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Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle need to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but mild pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again once sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to move a more intricate design onto metal. Then before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. As soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.
Starting to Saw:.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a consistent and gentle action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and drew back up to turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability before you buy.