Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for little scale jobs, but the choice is down to personal preference.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing every time.
There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally fine. The table listed below includes all the details you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Installing a blade into a saw:
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an accurate outcome whenever.
Beginning to Saw:.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of various attachments consisting of drill bits.
Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). If you wish to transfer a more intricate style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Before moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the design onto the metal.
Save this for later.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a mild but constant pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again once sawing is complete.
Submit to end up.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the very same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to show the stress is correct. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and repeat the process again up until its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back up to turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use effectively.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a mild and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you buy.
The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.