Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the correct course to successful sawing every time.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for little scale tasks, however the option is down to individual choice.
Another choice you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. The table listed below consists of all the information you will need to pick the right blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely sufficient. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability before you buy.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use effectively.
Beginning to Saw:.
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to maintain a mild and steady action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a newbie.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of various accessories including drill bits.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee a precise result whenever.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again as soon as sawing is total.
File to end up.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.
Conserve this for later on.