A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something totally various and holds unlimited possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right path to successful sawing each time.

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for small scale projects, but the option is down to personal preference.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely fine. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the info you will require to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Repairing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different accessories including drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Save this for later on.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle must face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with two points). If you wish to move a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Once you have re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Piercing.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability before you purchase.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an accurate outcome whenever.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to preserve a gentle and stable action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. However, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the right blade size/metal combination.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Beginning to Saw:.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but mild pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again when sawing is complete.
File to end up.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Troubleshooting:.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Also do not be lured to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

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