Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing each time.
When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into challenging areas.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely fine. The table below contains all the info you will require to select the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to guarantee an accurate outcome every time.
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the very same. The most important thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).
When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous but mild pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to finish.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to maintain a gentle and steady action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use efficiently.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of different accessories including drill bits.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
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Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.
Beginning to Saw:.