When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into tough locations.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something completely different and holds endless possibilities. Although many of us recognize with the principle of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable in the beginning, which is why we have assembled this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the right course to successful sawing whenever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. The table listed below consists of all the information you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine should be completely adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most essential thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial range of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an exact result whenever.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes best. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.
Beginning to Saw:.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a novice.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). If you desire to transfer a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Then before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the style onto the metal.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability before you buy.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle ought to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Save this for later.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a steady and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use efficiently.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a constant however gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to end up.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.