When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general function size for small scale tasks, however the choice is down to personal choice.
There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into challenging locations.
Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. The table below contains all the info you will need to pick the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Installing a blade into a saw:
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a mild and stable action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to unwind. Also dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.
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Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with should face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a constant however gentle pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to end up.
The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee a precise result every time.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.
Starting to Saw:.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.