A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another decision you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly great. The table listed below includes all the information you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely sufficient. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Installing a blade into a saw:

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to reveal the stress is right. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the process once again until its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Repairing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Likewise dont be tempted to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you wish to transfer a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Once you have re-traced the design onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure a precise result each time.

Troubleshooting:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Piercing.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a constant and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again once sawing is total.
File to complete.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you purchase.

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Beginning to Saw:.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

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