A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general function size for small scale jobs, however the choice is down to personal preference.

There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough locations.

Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below consists of all the details you will require to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Setting up a blade into a saw:

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Piercing.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of different accessories including drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability prior to you purchase.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Conserve this for later on.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a mild but constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
File to finish.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a constant and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Starting to Saw:.

Repairing:.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an exact outcome each time.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Troubleshooting:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). If you wish to move a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Then before moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Once you have re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.

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