A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

https://www.cooksongold.com/blog/learn/a-guide-to-sawing-piercing/

There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct course to successful sawing every time.

Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the information you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine should be completely adequate. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Conserve this for later.

Repairing:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure a precise result every time.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Beginning to Saw:.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Also dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use efficiently.

Troubleshooting:.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again when sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle need to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Tools for Piercing: There are many various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most important thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you buy.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a constant and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Piercing.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *