A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard areas.

Sawing

Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct course to effective sawing whenever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general function size for little scale tasks, however the choice is down to individual preference.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely great. The table listed below consists of all the information you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Setting up a blade into a saw:

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes best. Nevertheless, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Troubleshooting:.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Likewise do not be lured to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but mild pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
Submit to end up.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an accurate result every time.

Save this for later on.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Starting to Saw:.

Repairing:.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to maintain a gentle and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability prior to you purchase.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Piercing.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

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