A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough areas.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very fine. The table listed below includes all the info you will need to select the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a gentle and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle ought to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of different accessories including drill bits.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again once sawing is complete.
Submit to complete.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes best. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Conserve this for later on.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Beginning to Saw:.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Troubleshooting:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Piercing.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you want to transfer a more complex style onto metal. Before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. When you have re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an exact outcome every time.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability prior to you purchase.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Fixing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

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