Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general function size for little scale tasks, but the option is down to personal choice.
When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.
There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the details you will need to select the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Installing a blade into a saw:
The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to keep a stable and mild action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a beginner.
Starting to Saw:.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability before you buy.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points). If you wish to transfer a more intricate style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different accessories including drill bits.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a constant but mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to complete.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure an accurate result every time.
Conserve this for later.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with should face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).