Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into difficult locations.
Another choice you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something completely different and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing each time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the information you will need to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly appropriate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Installing a blade into a saw:
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to ensure an accurate result whenever.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a constant but mild pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
File to end up.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a novice.
Starting to Saw:.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use efficiently.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a mild and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes best. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.
Save this for later on.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial range of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle need to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to direct the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you want to transfer a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Then before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. As soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.