Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the very first step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds endless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult locations.
When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the info you will require to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 8/0
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to move a more complex style onto metal. Then prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the design onto the metal.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes best. However, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a novice.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to maintain a stable and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage must face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle however continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
Submit to finish.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Conserve this for later.
Beginning to Saw:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability before you purchase.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure an accurate outcome every time.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.