Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something totally different and holds endless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing each time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for small scale projects, however the choice is down to personal choice.
There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below includes all the information you will require to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Installing a blade into a saw:
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you buy.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle must face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to show the tension is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the procedure again until its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure an accurate outcome each time.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different attachments including drill bits.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a newbie.
Beginning to Saw:.
The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use effectively.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous however mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again as soon as sawing is total.
File to end up.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Save this for later.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a mild and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.