A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard areas.

Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first action in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something completely various and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing every time.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below contains all the information you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Starting to Saw:.

Troubleshooting:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a newbie.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

Conserve this for later.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you want to transfer a more complicated design onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a mild but constant pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to end up.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Tools for Piercing: There are many various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a mild and constant action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Piercing.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of various accessories including drill bits.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an exact outcome each time.

Repairing:.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

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