Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing whenever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic purpose size for small scale projects, but the choice is down to personal choice.
There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough locations.
When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to extremely fine. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the details you will require to choose the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Installing a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely assisting to ensure an exact outcome whenever.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle must face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to complete.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to preserve a stable and mild action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of different attachments including drill bits.
Tools for Piercing: There are numerous various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a novice.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Conserve this for later.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Starting to Saw:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability prior to you buy.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use successfully.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.