Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for small scale jobs, however the choice is down to individual preference.
There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the very first step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing whenever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will need to choose the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Beginning to Saw:.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to transfer a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the style onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use efficiently.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of various accessories including drill bits.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with should face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to reveal the stress is correct. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the process again until its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will lead to it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Likewise dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a gentle and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes best. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you buy.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure an exact outcome whenever.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a mild however continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
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