Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for little scale jobs, but the choice is down to individual choice.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below includes all the information you will need to select the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely sufficient. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Installing a blade into a saw:
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use efficiently.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you want to move a more intricate design onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Once you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a mild but continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again as soon as sawing is complete.
File to end up.
Starting to Saw:.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you buy.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different accessories including drill bits.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes best. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to ensure an exact outcome every time.
Conserve this for later.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a consistent and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a newbie.
Tools for Piercing: There are lots of different ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most important thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.