Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for small scale tasks, however the option is down to individual choice.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Although many of us recognize with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing each time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very fine. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the details you will need to select the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to guarantee an exact result each time.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).
Tools for Piercing: There are numerous various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the very same. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to maintain a stable and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to finish.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage must face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to show the tension is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the procedure again until its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability before you buy.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of different attachments including drill bits.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a newbie.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Conserve this for later on.
Starting to Saw:.