A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic purpose size for little scale tasks, however the choice is down to individual preference.

Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.

Sawing

Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. The table listed below includes all the details you will require to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.

Piercing.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Beginning to Saw:.

Repairing:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to complete.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to keep a mild and steady action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Also dont be tempted to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an exact outcome each time.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to move a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Then prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. As soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle should face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes ideal. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Conserve this for later.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Troubleshooting:.

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