A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for small scale jobs, but the choice is down to individual choice.

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the details you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Piercing.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous but mild pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again as soon as sawing is complete.
Submit to end up.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Starting to Saw:.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to keep a mild and steady action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability before you purchase.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of different accessories including drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a novice.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use successfully.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an accurate outcome each time.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Save this for later.

Repairing:.

The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Repairing:.

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