A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the correct course to successful sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will require to select the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Beginning to Saw:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a stable and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Fixing:.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but mild pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again once sawing is complete.
File to end up.

Save this for later.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use effectively.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure an accurate result every time.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of various accessories including drill bits.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to unwind. Likewise dont be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to show the tension is correct. If you do not hear the ping merely undo and repeat the process again up until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Fixing:.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Piercing.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to direct the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). If you want to transfer a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Then before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability before you purchase.

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