A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the right course to successful sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general function size for little scale tasks, however the choice is down to individual preference.

There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the details you will need to choose the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly appropriate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Installing a blade into a saw:

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a constant however mild pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again once sawing is complete.
File to end up.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different accessories including drill bits.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Troubleshooting:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to ensure an exact result whenever.

Troubleshooting:.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to maintain a stable and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a novice.

Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to move a more intricate style onto metal. Then before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks created when you re-trace. When you have re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

Piercing.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Conserve this for later.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability prior to you purchase.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Starting to Saw:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

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