A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the first step in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing each time.

Sawing

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard areas.

When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely fine. The table below consists of all the information you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Installing a blade into a saw:

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure a precise result whenever.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a novice.

Beginning to Saw:.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Conserve this for later on.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage should face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to reveal the stress is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the process once again up until its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Piercing.

Troubleshooting:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Fixing:.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a constant however mild pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again when sawing is total.
File to complete.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points). If you want to move a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Then before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability before you buy.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to preserve a mild and steady action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

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