Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something totally various and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.
There have been some new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Another choice you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely great. The table listed below includes all the details you will require to select the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly adequate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again once sawing is total.
Submit to complete.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a consistent and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to make sure an exact result each time.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
Conserve this for later on.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a newbie.
The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage should face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Beginning to Saw:.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to transfer a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the style onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability prior to you purchase.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.