There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard areas.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for small scale tasks, however the choice is down to personal choice.
When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the right course to successful sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the information you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly adequate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Installing a blade into a saw:
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use successfully.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an accurate result every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle ought to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to reveal the tension is correct. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the process again till its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
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Beginning to Saw:.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to keep a consistent and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability before you buy.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a beginner.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to move a more intricate design onto metal. Then prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Likewise do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again when sawing is complete.
File to finish.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge range of different accessories including drill bits.
The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.