A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right path to successful sawing whenever.

Another decision you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very fine. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the info you will require to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly sufficient. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Setting up a blade into a saw:

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle but continuous pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to end up.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you buy.

Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the exact same. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to preserve a gentle and stable action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to show the tension is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the process again up until its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Also do not be lured to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Piercing.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.

Troubleshooting:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee an exact outcome every time.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

Save this for later.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Repairing:.

Starting to Saw:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to direct the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

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