A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Sawing

Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly fine. The table below includes all the details you will need to choose the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Installing a blade into a saw:

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of different accessories including drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.

The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to complete.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an accurate outcome each time.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability before you buy.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).

Fixing:.

Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the exact same. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely typical and practise makes best. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage must face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to reveal the stress is correct. If you do not hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the procedure once again up until its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a constant and mild action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

Piercing.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a novice.

Beginning to Saw:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Save this for later on.

Repairing:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

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