A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for small scale projects, however the choice is down to personal choice.

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Sawing

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the very first action in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds unlimited possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing each time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly fine. The table below contains all the information you will require to pick the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to move a more intricate design onto metal. Before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have re-traced the style onto the metal.

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Piercing.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a novice.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage must face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of different attachments including drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Starting to Saw:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Repairing:.

Troubleshooting:.

The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an exact outcome each time.

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Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a constant and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a constant however gentle pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again as soon as sawing is complete.
File to finish.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability prior to you buy.

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