Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct course to successful sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for small scale tasks, however the option is down to individual choice.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into challenging locations.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to very great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the details you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.
Installing a blade into a saw:
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a mild and constant action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Likewise do not be lured to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Beginning to Saw:.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
File to finish.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Conserve this for later on.
The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of various attachments consisting of drill bits.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you buy.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an exact outcome whenever.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to reveal the tension is correct. If you dont hear the ping simply undo and duplicate the process again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.